Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 4:31 pm Post subject: Orgonite and room size
I finally found someone in my place that makes orgonite.
I am considering buying some pieces but was wondering as to how much range these have, how small or how big should one (let's say a pyramid) be to cover a room?
Also, anything specific I should ask or find out about these (composition for example) before I proceed with a purchase?
I would reccomend that you try to make one yourself first. A "Holy Hand Grenade" would be a good one to try. Check out littlemountainsmudge
There is a wealth of information for beginners including" HHGs and Orgone Matrix Material"
Here is a consultation report for HHG's from Modern Orgone Issue 5 by Jon Logan :
HHG Tips TOC
(edited version of a consultation response)
by Jon Logan
I am a person with interests in the broader field of
applied ‘subtle energy’ engineering. That said,
HHGs are relatively simple devices and one does
not need to be a tech-head in order to make them.
First off, while it does IMO coax a bit more
performance from the units if you use doubleterminated
quartz crystals in the HHG, you do not
NEED to use double-terminated quartz specimens.
You can also use single terminated quartz points.
You can also use tumbled quartz pieces. Depending
on where you live and your financial
circumstances, it may or may not be
affordable/practical for you to use doubleterminated
(DT = Double terminated; ST = Single Terminated)
If you elect to use a combination of DT and ST
crystals, then use the DT for the vertical xtal in the
HHG, and the lower quality ST or tumbled pieces
for the horizontal crystals. Use the nicest xtal in
each group of 5 for the one that ‘stands up’ in the
center of the HHG.
The HHGs can be made in any shape, though
generally they are made in some variant of a cone
or pyramid shape. Cones are an easy shape to work
with and one which you can find suitable molds for
with relative ease. Go get some cheap plastic
funnels at your local home depot, Wal-Mart,
builders supply store, etc. Cut the tip off the funnel
and glue, tape or melt it closed to plug the hole.
Tape is the best (quick) method of doing this, and I
recommend using either a good quality masking
tape or (better) aluminum auto body tape.
Normally MHD or HD is used for HHGs. This is
because the matrix must be ‘open’ enough for the
HHG to be reasonably active in a passive mode.
With the higher densities, the matrix needs be
stimulated in some way in order to process any
significant quantity of energy.
Copper is an excellent choice of metal for the
HHGs. Any metal will work, but copper has a bit
broader response range than aluminum. Aluminum
is probably the single most commonly-used metal
for making HHGS, and it works fine despite
assertions by some that it is unsuitable. The energy
signature of aluminum is not as ‘good for you’ as
that of copper, or steel (see Edgar Cayce regarding
suitability of carbon steel for human energy field).
But for HHG or TBs made to be ‘gifted’ in the
open, it works fine. For HHGs which you intend to
use indoors or which will be handled a lot, then
copper is a better choice (IFF it is to be had).
One thing you can do to enhance the action of the
material is to use more than one type of metal. Use
2 different types of metal such as one could
construct a battery from, ie. one ferromagnetic, the
other diamagnetic… one with a higher conductivity
than the other. So for example, you could mix a
little bit of steel, iron, pyrite, chalcopyrite or nickel
into the copper. An economical source of steel is to
get some fine or ultra fine steel wool and cut it up
into short pieces about ¼” long with a pair of
scissors. While this is time-consuming, it is
Another source of steel is to go around to local
machine shops and ask for steel shavings or filings.
Often they will give you this for free if you tell
them it is for a craft project. Steel and copper go
well together. Brass is also often available as
shavings from key cutting machines – go ask them
at your local hardware store for the shavings and
often you can get them for free.
An example of a an MHD metal mixture for
general-purpose use would be:
Copper (or aluminum) 75 to 90%
Steel - 22.5 to 9.5%
Brass – 0.5 to 2.5%
It is OK if the brass and steel particles are much
smaller than the copper, and you need only mix in a
small amount of the other metals to get the effect.
Alternately, if you had lots of steel and only a little
copper you could mix a little of the copper into the
Another cheap trick is to add a single, reasonably
large gold-plated bead to each HHG. It does not
need to be a high quality gold plating. Gold has an
excellent energy signature for HHGs and so does
silver. If you are using a ‘tiny’ piece of a precious
metal, you can get away with using only a single
small piece if it is placed in either the tip of the
cone or the center of the base of the cone. If you
want to be more finicky then you can carefully tape
a small piece of gold or silver to the side of the
vertical xtal in the HHG. Point being, you can use
a small piece of precious metal to influence the
whole energy signature of the HHG if it is placed in
a focal point of energy within the cone. The tip,
center crystal, and center of base are all focal points
of energy within the cone.
In addition to the metals, you can add any of the
following minerals in small amounts, they are all
IMO safe for general purpose use:
Hematite and lapis lazuli are also great but may too
strong for some folks, some people react badly to
hematite and some people get over stimulated by
That said, I often work with a combination of
turquoise, lapis lazuli and hematite in my HHGs
Before you ask, the word ‘organic’ means ‘made
mostly out of carbon atoms’. It does NOT mean
‘formerly living tissue’, ‘of natural origin’, ‘nontoxic’,
‘environmentally friendly’ or anything else
The most commonly used organic resin is polyester
resin with MEKP catalyst, used normally for
fiberglass work. It is nasty to work with but works
just fine for making orgone matrix material. Do not
go and ask for polyester resin at the hardware store
they won’t know what you mean; ask for fiberglass
resin and they will know what you mean. Polyester
resin often cracks while curing and for HHGs the
small cracks do not affect the performance of the
device much, unless they cause the casting to fall
Another plastic resin you can use is epoxy. Epoxy
is also nasty to work with but works just as well for
making HHGs. While epoxy is not as prone to
cracking as polyester, it also does not shrink away
form the sides of the mold when it cures.
Sometimes shrinking away form the mold makes it
easier to remove the finished casting.
Acrylic casting plastic also works well and is
generally a bit more expensive than polyester of
epoxy. It is not prone to cracking but tends to trap
small air bubbles. It does not shrink away form the
side of the mold when it cures. It has a slightly
nicer feel than polyester but IMO not nice enough
to warrant the often 3x price.
Hardened pitch from trees is a natural resin that you
can use. While not as durable and possessed of
tendency to soften and sag when left in the hot sun,
it is a natural material and has a nice feel to it.
Beeswax can also be used but again is neither as
efficient as pitch nor even as durable as pitch.
Plastic resin are generally used because they are
easily available, durable and economical compared
to most of the other alternatives.
You can mix a small amount of powdered herbs
into the resin for a semi-homeopathic effect. I leave
it to you to decide what herbs are best used, and
suggest that you spend some time reading up on it.
As a simple suggestion, I might recommend sage,
as it has energetic properties that work well in an
HHG, is more or less safe for general use, and is
easily accessible inmost supermarkets. You only
need to use a tiny amount of the sage in the resin,
say 0.5 to 1.5 teaspoons of powdered sage per a
I also sell a premix powder blend suitable for using
in HHGs (by adding small amounts) or in making
EXD (used with just the powder and resin).
You could add a pinch of finely powdered iron
oxide (rust form steel or iron, or red earth if you
can find red earth where you live) to the resin.
You do not need to put a mobius coil in an HHG.
You can do so, put TBH the flat spiral coils are
more suited to use in HHGs than a mobius coil.
Adding a mobius coil changes the HHG into a
small broadcast device. You then have to pa
attention to what is running through that coil.
If you want to make something with a mobius coil
in it, then cast a small disk or slab of HD or XHD
and put a coil in that.
An optional step but well worth the effort. You do
not need a mobius-coil-driven generator to program
resin, though of course you could build a small one
to use for this purpose. An easier option to get
started would be to just use a PC sound card and
some audio speakers. Put the speakers close to the
resin and play the solfeggio frequencies while the
resin cures. Or, you can download the file in the
audio files section of my new site:
(use the word member for the logon and use the
word isubscribed for the password), follow the
links to the audio files section and download the phi
resonance tones file.If you don’t want to
download the file then use NCH toner and play 741
and 528 Hz.
You can use magnets in an HHG, but it is not
necessary and some care needs to be taken to fit the
magnets in correctly. I would suggest you omit the
magnets in your first several batches and add them
only if you are not getting the results you are
looking for. When a magnet is added to an HHG,
you have to pay attention to which polarity of the
magnet is where, and deploy the HHG accordingly.
Magnets are suited for disk shaped HHG and the
disks should be used by holding the N pole of the
magnet against the skin.
Since you intend to sell them, I assume you plan to
make a few of them. Therefore, I would suggest
that you keep the first batch simple. Here is a quick
overview of what I would recommend:
Little bit of steel
Tiny bit of brass (optional)
Polyester or Acrylic
Herbs / Powders: (optional)
Pinch of Sage
Pinch of Iron Oxide
ST or DT
try to pick a nice one for the central, vertical xtal
(point up if ST, points In on base if ST)
Gold or Silver
(one or all of above)
Try to leave a layer about 1/8” to ½” thick on the
bottom of the cone (or pyramid, disk / other shape)
that is just resin, no metal.
Sanding / Finishing:
Not needed, but it’s a good idea to grind or sand off
the sharp edges sometimes left by casting. It does
not hurt them to paint them if desired. If using a
metallic paint, leave the bottom of the cone and a
small area at the tip of the cone unpainted.
For outdoor use, place in a body of water, in
contact with a grounded structural building
member, or bury under a few inches of soil.
For indoor use, move the item semi-regulary (every
fee months at least). Also, you should either run
cold water over the HHG for a few minutes or place
it outdoors in contact with the ground - at least
twice a year.
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